17-18 March 2017 Russell

Russell Orongo Bay Holiday Park, Russell, Northland

View from the top of Russell Bay across the harbour

This was quite a find - because we usually avoid the more 'touristy' places - but heading for the ferry over to Paihia, we needed an overnight stay.

People have raved to us in the past about how beautiful Russell is - to be honest, we've always taken that with a pinch of salt. I often feel disappointed about recommendations when they don't live-up to expectations, it reminds me of when American's are so enthusiastic about elements of Disneyworld being 'so quaint' or convincingly "English' or whatever. Yeah, right. 

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But Russell was a fantastic little town - admittedly, when we first visited there was one of those hideous mega cruise-ships anchored off the (otherwise unspoilt) turquoise-blue bay, so hoards of Americans, Japanese and other international tourists were ambling around the small streets, cameras, hand-luggage and phones in hand, red key-holding lanyards displaying their ship's name around their necks (presumably incase anyone got lost)...Many passengers had bought pies and chips (obviously starving after being away from their ship for an hour or more) and were eating whilst walking around... I felt a bit sorry for the shop-owners; this isn't like Sorrento where the tacky souvenirs and pop-up market-stalls are plentiful and the staff always keen for a generous tip after good service. This was St Patrick's Day too - so the pubs were gearing-up for a Karaoke binge...

Post Office and book shop - with a St Patrick's Day theme.

To avoid the noise from town, we stayed in the campsite and made full use of the pizza-oven and free firewood..what an excellent way to use-up all those left-overs:

hot embers! lets' get cooking!

yum!

So the following day, when the two ships had left to continue their next high-speed pollution-causing tour of Australasia - next stop Queenstown, South Island - there was an entirely different atmosphere in the town. 

Rainbow over the campsite

The quiet roads became almost dominated by pedestrians, and many were locals going about their daily business - Gossip at community Post Office (which doubled as a second hand book store and stationers) - 



Fresh bread from a fabulous local bakery (even if the owner was a bit grumpy) and a stroll along the seafront where the ferries for pedestrians pull in every ten minutes... this was a peaceful and genuinely natural slice of New Zealand's Northland.

The famous historic Anglican church in Russell - a short walk from the campsite.

Returning to the campsite was a joy - the owners Angela and Don are very mush part of the community which works hard to protect the local environment and prevent too much development. That's because - let's be honest - the infrastructure here - like many places in NZ - simply cannot handle an increase in the population. 

one of the Weka outside our caravan..

Justin and Dizzy walk the boardwalks over the Mangroves...

We loved the walks ...

We learnt that there is a different kind of Weka up here in Northland, compared to the species we observed in Cable Bay, South Island. 

Dizzy was on her best behaviour!

Friendly but shy Weka at the campsite.

And the Weka here were walking around freely with chicken companions, Pukekos and ducks....And like other poison-free areas we have camped, there was evidence of rabbits and pheasants too and the odd peacock. It was a truly diverse 'farmyard' natural environment - and one which Angela believes passionately in preserving. Remember Wekas are officially 'predators' of native birds eggs and lizards etc  - those poison-obsessed DoC staff often don't acknowledge that fact. Every night we heard Kiwi and Morepork. This was a magical place.

In the tracks around the campsite, no poison signs anywhere! there was evidence of some rat traps - not well-maintained. Apparently there is a privately-owned electric 'predator fence' across the peninsular - although personally, I can't see the point of that with ferries arriving and leaving the mainland every 10 mins, and cruise-ships anchored just off the harbour. Rats swim. 

Beautiful tracks around the boardwalks of Russell...

track walks - wonderful insect and bird life...

And when we walked further, we discovered the horrendous eyesore of the Russell landfill site. Can you believe it?

view of the landfill from the walking track - partly obscured by trees

Located well away from roadside views and located in an old quarry, we could see the result of what New Zealand authorities think is perfectly acceptable to dump in landfill, but which is outlawed elsewhere in the world - tyres, microwaves and cement...a horrible sight. This was one of those times when we feel like alien visitors or time-travellers from the future: Angela was talking about the landfill being covered over soon, to make way for a 'parkland area'. But we know the truth about the pollution of these areas - one day the whole site will need to be dug-up and those items that will effectively NEVER decompose, will have to be disposed of responsibly. 

another view of the rubbish outside Russell. 

Delaying the inevitable is what New Zealand Government seems very good at - ignore the problem of pollution hoping it will go away. But guess what? It doesn't! If only the cruise ships could be made to contribute to the clear-up after tourists visit - after all their ships are bellowing-out toxins into the air at far higher a rate than the few cars in Russell....

Anyway, after a few lovely days in the Russell area, we made the short journey from Okiato on the peninsular to Opua. 

Leaving Russell and the tiny port of Okiato behind...

Mid way on the ferry across the harbour...

Stan the Van on the ferry - Dizzy in the ute!

Safely arrived! At the beautiful harbour of Opau near Paihia.

It was only 10 mins and although quite scary driving the caravan onto the platform, Justin did a fantastic job at negotiating the ramp and the staff were very experienced and very friendly. 

In no time at all we were across the other side of the bay - and mile for mile, this was probably the most expensive ferry trip in the whole of NZ at $45!