25-28 March 2017 Ahipara, Southern end of 90-Mile Beach

Powered site at the Ahipara site

Another campsite we have returned to - after some nights freedom camping, we needed some laundry facilities!  This Ahipara Campsite - not far from Kaitaia  - is a lovely location and quite sheltered by trees from the roaring waves of that unforgiving West Coast Surf. 

the empty campsite at Ahapira

There's a storm forecast, and the humidity high. So here I am typing this with the Air-Con on in a fully-powered-up caravan and thank God for this NZMCA wireless rural broadband (expensive though it is).

here we are!

A bonus to us campers - Bedz Fish and Chip shop down the road offers excellent 'Maori Fish' (a delicious traditional Pacifika dish made with mixed raw fresh fish (white mainly and sometimes shellfish too), with coconut milk and lemons and peppers ('capsicum' here). Yum!

Again - no poisoning here (but I suspect the golf course next door poisons the rabbits). But the insect and bird life is amazing. Quails walk around rather than Weka.

Ahipara - Southern peninsular

Maori land nearby - the North view over the Southern end of 90-mile beach

Having done a quick calculation about our travels so far, we are averaging $13 per night for campsite costs for the whole 2+ months we've been away - not bad eh? Tomorrow, we head off to another Freedom Camping site - Southbound to the Bays....and we really must book that South Island Ferry (Blenheim Air Show at Easter Weekend)!. :)

24 March 2017 Utea Park, 90-Mile Beach

We knew this campsite looked 'a bit different' to your average camping location - just from the information on the NZMCA App - there were no proper facilities here - it is like freedom camping in a hippy commune - to be blunt. All surf boards and pot (perhaps). 




Not much level ground - this is a 'bunk-bed' style backpackers place, bring your sleeping-bag and be prepared for a shared shower cubicle (if you don't want to brave the cold ones).
Phew - thank God for the relative luxury and privacy of our Stan the Van  - including having a good shower!




The attraction is, it's literally right on the sand-dunes of the beach - about a 10 kms drive down a gravel track to a very isolated iwi-owned piece of land that was headlined as uncommercialised and motivated by 'koha' (donation). Tanya and Paul are great hosts - but the skeptic in me, can't help thinking that these people are making lots of 'invisible' cash from this informal enterprise based on iwi land. There's an inauthentic nature about their hospitality that makes me uncomfortable about this 'underground' element of NZ society. There is a play to the traditional Maori ways as if it's unreachable by us 'tourists' (however we are defined), but that's not really fair, is it....many of if are fully aware of the Maori philosophy, and to my mind, it doesn't include encouraging naive tourists to drive their ill-equipped cars onto the famous 'race-track' that is 90-mile beach, so that they can get stuck and have to call the local tow-truck and get charged $150 to get pulled-out of the sand. It happens so many times a day that it's a joke - but not for me looking at all the rusted-out vehicles that people don't bother reporting or getting out, polluting the beaches...

One of the many cars left behind to cause a hazard and pollute the beaches here...

wild horses on their way to the beach...

Along the drive through the timber-industry pine forests, we had to slow down for the wild horses we were warned about. There's no poison here. Timber managers apparently are positive about maintaining a health population of wild horses, because they help keep the grass and weeds down between the saplings. 

wild horses drinking at the Spring near the beach...

And the beach was the best sunset view we have seen from 90-mile beach so far:



Catching glimpses of the horse families galloping through the shadows of the tall trees, and out into the daylight and the sea breeze was a magical experience. This place is probably the closest I've seen to the paradise that those NZ myths claim to hold - if only I could forget about all the pollution and poison, maybe that would be true....

20-23 March 2017 Kerikeri, Rainbow Falls

NZMCA site Freedom Camping ($3pp p/n)

We headed for an NZMCA because we needed to reduce our average costs asap! We'd been staying at 'proper' campsites for a few nights now, and although it's comfortable to have all those mod-cons in the caravan working on 240v, occasionally it's very satisfying to 'mix it up' and freedom camp somewhere away from it all.

Shells at the nearby beach at Kerikeri Inlet Road...

the Harbour at KeriKeri

Justin fishing as Dizzy lazes in the sunshine...

We found the Kerikeri site was exactly what we were looking for  - peaceful, not many people staying here, right next door to the incredible roaring Rainbow Falls reserve and tracks. The sad thing was that - of course - the DoC land - including a wonderful walking track of an hour that goes all the way into the town (1 hour) was NO DOGS. Sometimes this anti-dog NZ really gets me angry.😠

The view of Rainbow Falls from the track beside the campsite:

But there were compromises - beaches and bays and rivers all around us where there were no restrictions at all - thank God. 

Also there was a friendly butcher just at the top of the road. The only thing missing here was a drinking-water tap, so we were on strict rations after filling-up both tanks at Waitangi...

one of the small quiet bays overlooking the harbour at Kerikeri...

I'd forgotten that NZ First's Winston Peters' office was in Kerikeri - so I stopped into to chat to Jane Johnston about the recent Press Release against 1080 Poison. Now I don't agree with most of what NZ First stand for, but after spending the past 3 months travelling the length and breadth of New Zealand, and seeing the stark difference between the poisoned areas and the (few remaining) areas left untouched by DoC, TBFree or Commercial intervention - it's obvious the ecocide has got to be stopped. NZ First are the only poltical party that seem to be exposing and speaking-out about this fraud, so I want to support that element of what they do.

NZ Firsts office in KeriKeri centre

Jane told us about the Bush Bay Action group - which is what I like to think is the real alternative to this poisoning obsession - real communities getting out there, into the forests and seeing for themselves what is happening and how they can observe and sometimes help Mother Nature. But can you believe, when I later investigated the social media of this group, they were spouting off the same propaganda from DoC - that tired old war-mongering language that 1080 poison from helicopters is somehow 'targeted' and 'helpful' to native birds. Of course quoting evidence that contradicts this view - ironically from their own pro-poisoning hierarchy - is enough to be deleted and blocked from any  further comments. Hmmmm I wonder what their Trustees think of that behaviour? And without NZ First's support, they are a bit lost in Northland..

Irony: opposite NZ Firsts office - a possum fur shop (expensive)

Our friend Shane in Southland can't find enough poison-free land to catch and sell possum fur and fibre, and here in Northland, where there's a real opportunity to use the fur and meat to good economic benefit, the community groups that CAN make a real change, are brainwashed (and maybe blackmailed) into repeating the same old rhetoric based on false science and flawed studies full of conflicts of interest. Depressing just isn't a strong enough word.

Harbour at Kerikeri Outlet.

God help NZ if the poison reaches the ubiquitous nature in Northland that is has in South Island.

On a more positive note to end this post, we discovered a fabulous authentic, historic 'Stone Store' in one of the bays - an original settler place from full with lovely crafty things (that you can also buy online) that have (mainly) been made in NZ.

The stone store - with the oldest Pakeha house in NZ behind it.

It was such a refreshing change from the many Chinese-imported rubbish we see around the tourist shops now. And I couldn't resist buying a couple of hand-molded, beeswax candles and a gift for my creative friend's forthcoming birthday (thinking ahead). But I could have spent hours here, and the museum and gardens surrounding it are fascinating and peaceful. 

One for the 'return' list. Definitely. 

19 March 2017. Waitangi

aerial view stolen from the web to show the treaty grounds (Campsite on the top right)

We ventured back to this campsite just for an overnight. Having stopped here before, it's definitely one of our favourite locations - situated right on the banks of the Waitangi harbour, overlooking the bridge across the famous Waitangi Treaty Grounds. And Bruce runs a tight ship here, with clean and tidy facilities at a reasonable price. All walking distance to town.




It was disappointing to see broken glass and graffiti along the estuary walls and shoreline. I had to be careful with Dizzy running along when the tide was out. The bird life here isn't quite as prolific as it is in Russell - but then you'd expect that partly because of the higher residential population here. 

There's certainly a lot more development and subdivision - Paihia is a growing fashionable place to be.

We had already visited the Treaty Grounds - which is a very atmospheric place - best left to a personal experience rather than words on a blog. With no Government funding, they rely upon people making the effort to get to this relatively isolated place, but I can guarantee you won't be disappointed. I firmly believe all New Zealanders should go at least once in their lifetime to understand the history of this country better. It's uniquely mythical in some senses - and such a special place in New Zealand.

17-18 March 2017 Russell

Russell Orongo Bay Holiday Park, Russell, Northland

View from the top of Russell Bay across the harbour

This was quite a find - because we usually avoid the more 'touristy' places - but heading for the ferry over to Paihia, we needed an overnight stay.

People have raved to us in the past about how beautiful Russell is - to be honest, we've always taken that with a pinch of salt. I often feel disappointed about recommendations when they don't live-up to expectations, it reminds me of when American's are so enthusiastic about elements of Disneyworld being 'so quaint' or convincingly "English' or whatever. Yeah, right. 

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But Russell was a fantastic little town - admittedly, when we first visited there was one of those hideous mega cruise-ships anchored off the (otherwise unspoilt) turquoise-blue bay, so hoards of Americans, Japanese and other international tourists were ambling around the small streets, cameras, hand-luggage and phones in hand, red key-holding lanyards displaying their ship's name around their necks (presumably incase anyone got lost)...Many passengers had bought pies and chips (obviously starving after being away from their ship for an hour or more) and were eating whilst walking around... I felt a bit sorry for the shop-owners; this isn't like Sorrento where the tacky souvenirs and pop-up market-stalls are plentiful and the staff always keen for a generous tip after good service. This was St Patrick's Day too - so the pubs were gearing-up for a Karaoke binge...

Post Office and book shop - with a St Patrick's Day theme.

To avoid the noise from town, we stayed in the campsite and made full use of the pizza-oven and free firewood..what an excellent way to use-up all those left-overs:

hot embers! lets' get cooking!

yum!

So the following day, when the two ships had left to continue their next high-speed pollution-causing tour of Australasia - next stop Queenstown, South Island - there was an entirely different atmosphere in the town. 

Rainbow over the campsite

The quiet roads became almost dominated by pedestrians, and many were locals going about their daily business - Gossip at community Post Office (which doubled as a second hand book store and stationers) - 



Fresh bread from a fabulous local bakery (even if the owner was a bit grumpy) and a stroll along the seafront where the ferries for pedestrians pull in every ten minutes... this was a peaceful and genuinely natural slice of New Zealand's Northland.

The famous historic Anglican church in Russell - a short walk from the campsite.

Returning to the campsite was a joy - the owners Angela and Don are very mush part of the community which works hard to protect the local environment and prevent too much development. That's because - let's be honest - the infrastructure here - like many places in NZ - simply cannot handle an increase in the population. 

one of the Weka outside our caravan..

Justin and Dizzy walk the boardwalks over the Mangroves...

We loved the walks ...

We learnt that there is a different kind of Weka up here in Northland, compared to the species we observed in Cable Bay, South Island. 

Dizzy was on her best behaviour!

Friendly but shy Weka at the campsite.

And the Weka here were walking around freely with chicken companions, Pukekos and ducks....And like other poison-free areas we have camped, there was evidence of rabbits and pheasants too and the odd peacock. It was a truly diverse 'farmyard' natural environment - and one which Angela believes passionately in preserving. Remember Wekas are officially 'predators' of native birds eggs and lizards etc  - those poison-obsessed DoC staff often don't acknowledge that fact. Every night we heard Kiwi and Morepork. This was a magical place.

In the tracks around the campsite, no poison signs anywhere! there was evidence of some rat traps - not well-maintained. Apparently there is a privately-owned electric 'predator fence' across the peninsular - although personally, I can't see the point of that with ferries arriving and leaving the mainland every 10 mins, and cruise-ships anchored just off the harbour. Rats swim. 

Beautiful tracks around the boardwalks of Russell...

track walks - wonderful insect and bird life...

And when we walked further, we discovered the horrendous eyesore of the Russell landfill site. Can you believe it?

view of the landfill from the walking track - partly obscured by trees

Located well away from roadside views and located in an old quarry, we could see the result of what New Zealand authorities think is perfectly acceptable to dump in landfill, but which is outlawed elsewhere in the world - tyres, microwaves and cement...a horrible sight. This was one of those times when we feel like alien visitors or time-travellers from the future: Angela was talking about the landfill being covered over soon, to make way for a 'parkland area'. But we know the truth about the pollution of these areas - one day the whole site will need to be dug-up and those items that will effectively NEVER decompose, will have to be disposed of responsibly. 

another view of the rubbish outside Russell. 

Delaying the inevitable is what New Zealand Government seems very good at - ignore the problem of pollution hoping it will go away. But guess what? It doesn't! If only the cruise ships could be made to contribute to the clear-up after tourists visit - after all their ships are bellowing-out toxins into the air at far higher a rate than the few cars in Russell....

Anyway, after a few lovely days in the Russell area, we made the short journey from Okiato on the peninsular to Opua. 

Leaving Russell and the tiny port of Okiato behind...

Mid way on the ferry across the harbour...

Stan the Van on the ferry - Dizzy in the ute!

Safely arrived! At the beautiful harbour of Opau near Paihia.

It was only 10 mins and although quite scary driving the caravan onto the platform, Justin did a fantastic job at negotiating the ramp and the staff were very experienced and very friendly. 

In no time at all we were across the other side of the bay - and mile for mile, this was probably the most expensive ferry trip in the whole of NZ at $45!

15-16 March 2017: Bland Bay, Northland

Wow! What a find. beautiful area after a long drive here around the peninsular - the other side of the harbour area to where we stayed last year - at Whangaruru. Lots of cattle and some Pukekos living side-by-side with pheasants, rabbits and hares and goats. Absolutely NO poison signs in sight. What a relief.

Wandering Cattle - a common issue in Northland. This cow greeted us at Whangarei Road North...



This area is even less developed and alongside the beach are endless empty sections...with some temptingly for sale...

View from our caravan window

A walk along the beach - dog friendly!

A long walk on a hot day - Lucky we brought our water, Dizzy! :)

Enough from the photos really - no words needed. 

a sailing boat arrived the last evening we were there...

Apart from this is the most expensive campsite we've stayed at so far - at $88 for 2 nights, and NO facilities of any value. Kitchen is only hot plates (no basic equipment, let alone a microwave), showers are an extra $1 for 3 minutes (no warning signal when you run out either!). Not even paper towels in the loos and worst of all - NO rubbish bins and NO recycle bins either (although to be fair there is a food scraps buckets for the local pigs). I always bring a shovel for places like this - for those smelly nasties that need burying in the sand! LOL!  


We certainly need some freedom camping nights after all this expense! Our previous $12 p/n has been obliterated. But fortunately, plenty of opportunity for that in Northland.

I realised - after we left Bland Bay - how complacent I'd become about checking on DoC poisoned areas since being in Northland. You see, compared to South Island, Northland of North Island is relatively untouched, a quick look at the DoC 'Pesticide Summaries' confirms this. (along with the prolific insect and bird life that surrounds us). However, upon checking the next destination (a new area for us), I realised how close we had been to danger when running with Dizzy along the seemingly unspoilt Bland Bay beach. Have a look at these two maps to see what I mean:

The Bland Bay Campsite is situated at 'seven o'clock' within the bay - a few yards away from the poisoned area..

You can more clearly see the 'Camp' site location which is extremely close to the poisoned areas and beaches.

The main poison used in this operation is Diphacinone - an anticoagulant designed to kill rats and rabbits  - but which by definition is highly toxic to all mammals through primary and secondary ingestion.  Further along the bay is Cyanide. Many of these types of poisoned areas are not signposted appropriately (risks to children for example) and the Kiwi approach to the dangers are 'she'll be alright'. Terrifying really when there are so many international tourists here.

Thank GOD Dizzy and I went for our walk WESTWARDS along the shoreline and not East. Mental note: lets not be complacent anymore, check the poisoned areas before each campsite. Its just too risky not to, even if knowledge of it ruins what would otherwise be paradise....

12-13 March Ngunguru near Whangarei

Whangarei is a pretty harbour-side town, surrounded by rolling hills and is regarded as an important gateway to Northland and a centre of employment - especially for the local hospital. 

The 'Basin' area - central quayside in Whangarei

I was meeting a Twitter friend in the town this week, so we camped overnight at a POP in nearby Ngunguru. Along the roadside out of town, interestingly there was lots of stone-walls around the fields and paddocks on the road to the estuary - something I don't think I've seen before in New Zealand - sort of reminiscent of our old Lake District...

Historic stone walls built by early settlers when Kauri Gum jobs were in decline.

It turns out it was volcanic rock from the Dalmation gum tree workers - now preserved as valuable. Some were even being re-built.

Dizzy loved running along the estuary beaches and the little town of Ngunguru was very friendly and full of interesting diverse migrants that has probably escapes the Auckland rat-race. 

Ngunguru  - tree swing which at low tide is exposed in the sand and shells

Sadly the shell-fishing opportunities here are finished - for the time being at least. We learned from the guy who owned the POP we were staying, that a year or so ago, the local timber industry let some toxic waste get washed into the estuary and it killed all the shellfish with a layer of brown muck. So the locals petitioned for some accountability (surprise surprise, no luck so far) and that to let the shell-fish population recover fully, so kai collection is allowed in the area for a while.

The good news is though, that sea-fish don't seem to have been affected - our host went out in his boat and collected all his quota allowance in only 2 hours! Not bad for a mornings' work that He'd anticipated would keep him out (and away from his wife) all day. :)