About Me

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Cambridge, New Zealand
Sociologist, teacher, researcher, writer. Never thought of myself as an environmentalist until I moved to New Zealand. When a country uses so much poison that is banned in the rest of the world - with seemingly no regard for humanity, there's got to be a sociological explanation - this exploration is about finding one. For useful scientific info on aerial poisoning, see: http://1080science.co.nz/

Sunday, 28 May 2017

14-15 May - Mountainous Glenorchy

Glenorchy Hotel - powered site

Still too cold these recent days to 'make do' with freedom camping (not brave enough)! So, we headed next to another place we hadn't visited before - the Scottish-like mountains and lakes of Glenorchy. This has got to be the most beautiful area of Otago - and the least visited because it's just too far for some tourists to venture outside of Queenstown  - down what could be viewed as a 'dead-end-road' (to 'Paradise' - ironically)! LOL! (Although Paradise is apparently named after the species of duck, not the place).


Our Campsite in the Glenorchy Hotel with the glorious mountainous backdrop

The Hotel Glenorchy where we parked for $12 with power also had backbackers' accommodation - so we could also take advantage of the laundry and bathrooms. Warm welcome, friendly staff and delicious food and wine.
Inside the Glenorchy Hotel with a centre fireplace


Lamb for dinner at the Glenorchy Hotel!
Supporting a local vineyard....
There is lots of history connected with the Otago hills in this area - where mining was an attractive financial incentive for the new Pakeha Settlers during those tough early years. 





























Whilst we were here, we took advantage of the close proximity to Queenstown, left Stan-the-Van behind and treated ourselves to lunch at another World-famous-in-New-Zealand foodie place - Fergburger


watching the quick work of the Fergburger kitchen staff - fast-food in style! 

...there was quite a queue for this popular place, but the result was worth it for the massive burgers and proper chips. (you won't need anything else to eat all day!) All part of the tourist-trap whilst the parking ticket ticks away the expensive minutes...;)


It had been quite some time since we were last here in Queenstown - almost 15 years ago as a tourist. The development of the area, along with the obvious failing infrastructure (by now a familiar issue) was astonishing, as we could see clearly from the top of the famous Gondola:

View overlooking Queenstown from the famous Gondola.
Pretty soon, we'd had more than enough of these crowds of people (it's amazing how we've acclimatized to this much-less populated country, and anything remotely busy makes me feel slightly anxious! How would I cope if I went back of those packed Kensington streets in London at Christmastime?! LOL!

Getting back to the serene, icy wilderness of Glenorchy was a relief - especially when there was a warm fire burning in that well-stocked bar!

Whilst there, we met up with an academic friend who lives nearby. The poisoning is never far away, as I've explained before. I always look at the Government Pesticide Summary to establish whether an area we are camping in is risky for Dizzy or not - and I knew it wasn't too far away here in Glenorchy. My friend confessed she now believed she now understood how German people must have felt during WW2, when they knew a Nazi concentration camp wasn't too far away. This may seem extreme, but to an animal-lover and an intelligent person who understands the science of suffering an inhumane death, it is almost unbearable to cope with the knowledge that so much unnecessary death and destruction is happening as a result of the aerial distribution of these terrible poisons. 

The current DoC Pesticide Summary showing one of the many areas surrounding Glenorchy which has been poisoned with Compound 1080 aerially with helicopters recently. To the North Dart and Routburn have also been covered.

The paradox of the dreadful poison - forced upon the residents who are against it in trying to protect their food chain and their environments - is shocking against the beauty of this area. Brought me to tears on the edge of the lake, looking onto these silent mountains...


J on the edge of a boardwalk which forms the walking tracks around Glenorchy - all dog friendly (unusually).




Early morning in Glenorchy


13 May: Athol Hunting Club Fundraiser

Athol Domain , Lodge & Holiday Park 

This was our first proper frost of the Southland Winter, so we were glad to get a powered site within walking distance of the world-famous-in-New Zealand Brown Trout Cafe. This was important because tonight the Athol Hunting Club were having their annual fund-raiser event here. And another world-famous-in-New Zealand  - the Graf brothers, Clyde & Steve - of  popular YouTube channel TV Wild were presenting during the evening - about hunting tips and wildlife facts, and also screened their latest film about the Makarora 1080 poison drop operation, from February this year.



It was standing-room only that evening in the spacious open-plan lodge, as Clyde and Steve talked first about how their father introduced them to life in the wild, enjoying nature and learning about birds and deer. The wood-burning stove glowed warmly in the corner, whilst the diverse audience - literally all ages and backgrounds - asked questions about hunting in the bush.  The brothers showed a selection of short clips from various adventures in the New Zealand forests - the audience were obviously enthralled to watch these insights and carefully edited situations. 

Clyde explaining about roaring in the bush. with his brother Steve on his right.


The brothers also demonstrated how best to call a stag using an old cow-horn to get their attention, which was fascinating to learn because I had no idea about the specific types of noises that could be recognised as having different meanings to the stags - for instance whether one was dominating a territory, or attracting a mate. Some of the members had a go - with mixed results!

It was clear to all in the room that Steve and Clyde's philosophy of enjoying wildlife and learning as much as possible from nature, was founded in a strong sense of respect for our environment. Now I know that some people will find it difficult to understand that killing an animal can also be about respecting it. But it's important to contextualise this within the New Zealand culture of living off the land - the Maori word for it is kai - as these hunters are all about providing for their families in some of the most poverty-stricken, rural and isolated areas of New Zealand. Although there are animal-welfare issues around pig-hunting (with dogs) (something we didn't have time to discuss) - these animals are shot as humanely as possible. It's more than food too - as this popular event showed, it's about socialising and learning and supporting each other. 
The next morning, the frost was evident all around us at the campsite! Brrrrrr!
So it was inevitable that the second-half of the evening's events would turn to more serious matters - that of the NZ Government's long-standing aerial poisoning operations  - mainly Compound 1080, but also of Brodifacoum - which were systematically and inhumanely killing the wildlife, insects and aquatic life all around the forests in New Zealand. Fore-warning the audience of what was to come, he said he wouldn't be offended if people chose to leave now. This is because 1080 poison divides communities because of the mis-information the NZ Government spread and also the emotive language often used to try to gain support. I"ll add some details of this later, but briefly, drawing on metaphors of war like 'Battle for our Birds' and so forth, ensures a cohort of 'nationalistic' supporters that genuinely believe that poison is a way to SAVE native species  - even when the evidence clearly shows how most NZ species are in decline after it's use.

Clyde showed this 30-minute film of what he and Steve discovered when tramping in Mount Aspiring National Park near Makarora (where we had parked at Christmastime). It was just after the poison operations in February which had covered thousands of hectares of land and water. Tragically, but not surprisingly (we've grown somewhat de-sensitized (if that's possible) to these horrendous deaths) there were numerous dead deer and rabbits and hares throughout the hills and baits were clearly present (as they would be after being dropped from a helicopter at some height) over a vast area. Highly toxic poison baits over our so-called "Clean, Green 100% Pure New Zealand". What an utter joke that propaganda is now.

There were many questions and lots of support from the audience. It appeared that many people simply hadn't realised what the poison was, and what it was doing to our environment. Many expressed their incredulity and anger that usual avenues of environmental help - e.g. Green Party and Greenpeace  - were actually an intrinsic part of the corruption that surrounds this poison industry. After all, the poison factories in NZ are owned by the Government 0 displaying a repeated conflict of interest in the use of these toxins that are banned in the rest of the world - for very good reasons.

The great thing about this kind of event (as well as raising loads of funds for the community) is that it gets people talking. Learning through discussion is so crucial and this terrible tragedy has been hidden away for too long. We walked home positive and pleased to have supported Clyde and Steve's initiative. These important activists give up their own time and money to help raise awareness of the risks of the poison. Often at the expense of their career in this toxic NZ workplace. This is in sharp contrast to the financial gravy-train of the pro-poisoning industry....
Dizzy investigating the rabbit tracks through the frost.
Brrrrr! Proper frost in the valley.

Our camp by the riverbanks (sadly the trout season had ended).




Friday, 12 May 2017

12 May Gore - home of trout!

A&P Grounds - central Gore.

We returned to Gore to pick-up some supplies and get a powered site c/o the warden Brendon, always a helpful guy. There was the usual Saturday morning school rugby tournament happening, and thoughtless people tried parking around us blocking us in (when there was plenty of space elsewhere). We met NZ blogger Jackie living in her camper - a typical Kiwi story of selling-up in Whangamata and travelling around the country with her dog. We had a chat about the experience of driving down the West Coast - so much poison that it was unsafe even to let your dog out of the car without being paranoid. We would later re-visit the West Coast to talk to friends about the poisoning operations there...

But meanwhile, we enjoyed our return to Gore, home of trout fishing. Before we ventured to Athol for a fund-raising event...


11 May Tokanui in the Catlins

Tokanui Tavern POP 

I love staying at these kinds of places. From a time gone by, this rural community was once a very busy hub. Now, the centre of the farming fields that surround it, as well as more 'up market' sections which stand-out from the humble villas with the sleek-lines of brand-new houses full of glass walls and roofs full with solar panels. This is deep dairy-country where drinking and driving is rife and there is often a smell of something more pungent than tobacco in a 'smoko area' outside on the deck....;)
dreadful quality photo - sorry, but you get the idea of where we were camped! :)



We stayed at the Tavern - right opposite the local recycling centre (convenient for a clear-out!) and enjoyed an evening of Southland hospitality - almost everyone made an effort to talk with us and we learned lots about the local economy, residents, schools and clubs. 
Fish  & steak and chips supper!

Delicious pub grub served here with a smile.


Next morning we could take advantage of the showers and paid our $10 for the use of their power....onwards through the countryide of Southland and Otago to Gore...



This is a interesting phenomena - among the gaming machines was this 'extreme hunting' game that was proving very popular - you can kill bears and moose  - wildlife unknown to a typical kiwi kid of course!

The far south was the first time in a while we had experienced the dreaded 1080 poison signs - the Catlins had received an aerial drop of 1080 poison some months ago (which is why we deliberately missed it out last time we were down this way. There was nowhere safe to take Dizzy for a walk and many tracks were out of bounds anyway due to the damage of the Winter's weather. I was keen to escape  - at least at Gore the lack of bush-type environment meant it was able to largely avoid the pressures from DoC. 

7 - 10 May 2017 Mosgiel near Dunedin

A & P Grounds at Mosgiel

I had wanted to spend more time in Dunedin when we were last here at Christmastime, so we camped at a recommended spot West of the city (on the bus route)  - with power for 4 days to enable us to fit everything in. This included visiting the museums, meeting with academic friends and taking in some of the history of Mosgiel. We also managed a bit of walking plus a bit of fishing at nearby Outram. Little did I know that a few weeks later DoC would announce their proposal to aerially poison with compound 1080 the Silverstream area....:(
Anyway, this wasn't something we would witness, so I'll recount what we DID see, in this beautiful little community and the nearby historic city. 


The surrounds of Dunedin are already suffering from various poisoning operations (mainly cyanide) so it paid to be aware of the geography on our walk: